Sunday, 8 December 2013

Moon Board, well nearly!

With climbing trips planned, our Cheeky Geordie Chappy decided it was time to set up some form of Moon Board in order to slow the ever advancing effects on age, with some 40degree woody training.

A big thanks to Brad B at K2 Brisbane for his help with Ben Moons 'School Room' holds sets.

With one set of School Room holds (black) up the board started to take shape.
























The second (yellow) set of School Room Holds are now up. The matting for the landing area is in place, and my fingers although a little sore, are benefiting from the training!






Good luck to you all with your climbing training and outside endeavours.




Life's full of changes

Several trips to Armidale in New South Wales have, with help from some local climbers (thanks Di and  Andy), demonstrated to our Strandedclimber, that you only need to be prepared to drive out of Queensland to find great climbing/bouldering on amazing quality rock.

Accommodation is very reasonable in Armidale. We stayed in a lodge at a local caravan park 15 mins drive from a an area boasting several bouldering areas. Di informed me that much of the rock is unclimbed and that while there has been development, because of the small numbers of climbers living there, there's lots of new lines waiting to be sent.

The rock is clean, with good friction in the morning and late afternoon. The boulder is typical of the rock in the picnic table area, with just one problem recorded on it. Plenty of potential. We completed three new problems, two sit starting under the front and another climbing the right arete.



A Great line runs from a sitting start, two hands on the arete to the break. Traverse along the break to a side pull just where the colour of the rock changes then slap back to your right onto the right arete. Use the small side pulls with your left hand and the arete with your right to squeeze your way to the top, feet matching hands.












"Larry the Phoenix' runs up the Gold streak of the riverside boulder pictured on the left. Its a typical problem that my UK climbing buddy Larry (yes the best climbing partner EVER) revels in, requiring you to keep one foot (your left in this case) out wide behind you smearing on the far (left) side of the Gold streak whilst your hands and right foot push and crimp up the right side. A sandy landing awaits if you miss the big stretch from the last decent hold to the top.




Good luck with your climbing renaissance Larry. Make sure your are back to your amazing strong self for May and some 'Secret Woods Bouldering!'

Saturday, 27 April 2013

Old Farts Escaped Out.

Your two cheeky chappies from the mother country headed out looking for some very steep overhanging rock having spent a lot of time training at their wall. Here's some pictures of the 'Super Steep Wall'

The Boulder is very different to a lot of the rock we have found in these parts.....it doesn't break too much when you pull on it.
 Cleaned
Nick on the start of 'Witness the Brittleness' V11
Up to a 3 finger tip Crimp with your left, then drop down with your right onto a horrible little side pull.
After popping left off the side pull for another crimp  you follow 'Kiss my Witness' V6 to finish by throwing left again, (you also run out of useful foot holds).
Topping out isn't much better. Don't fall. getting back up the bank on broken ankles won't be much fun.
Coffee time.


There's also a nice V4 here starting on the rail and side pull 'Silent Witness'

And a V6 'Kiss my Witness' starting on the side pull low down and finishing up 'Silent Witness'







Well we'll be back to this wall soon to see what more we can do. We've decided we need another couple of mats though, two isn't enough, and we plan to explore the boulders on the hillside overlooking this wall.

The coffee is great in the nearby town of Samford.

Enjoy your bouldering/climbing......StrandedClimbers

Sunday, 10 March 2013

Will it ever stop raining

So much for "You'll be glad to get away from the bad weather in the UK!"
Will it ever stop raining here in Queensland? Climatologists predict that these extremes of weather, Australia is either on fire or under water, will become the norm. This hasn't impressed our two cheeky chaps at all. With stories abound of perfect conditions back in Northumberland, beautiful blue skies, crisp days with perfect friction for climbing, they have found themselves having to train on plastic instead of getting outside. That said they do have an amazing board to train on with several V6 to V10 problems to keep them interested.

The mats have arrived (THANKS BAM), more holds have been purchased, and the sound system fills the air with tunes made for climbing to.
Now that this section is nearly complete, there's  talk of a 'Moon Board full of School holds.' Comments like "Well you have the wood and plenty on School Holds" has left your cheeky chaps with plenty to contemplate over the coming weeks. 





The Bolton Boy demonstrates just why a 40 degree Moon Board makes more sense than using the School Holds on a 50 degree overhang.  









Joining the chaps this week was Gustavo, our Brazilian crimper! Fresh from his part bouldering part investigating the 'Wolf-Lundmark-Melotte system' (albeit from a location that makes it difficult to see anything unless you have the eyes of a Haliaeetus Pelagicus) trip to Tasmania. Gustavo had been devastated to find the rock around Curly's Bar on 112 Murray Street, Hobart was crap! 
Apparently though "The sky looks beautiful from there honestly Marguerite!!!!", Yeh "especially when you're full of beer" replied our two scoundrels who are well averse with justifying their drinking trips as well.

Well with the rain set to continue, it looks as though we'll be on the plastic for a little while longer😞

Cheers and safe climbing.



Saturday, 9 February 2013

Oh those happy 'Training Days!'

Now the we have spent all our money on climbing holds, yes my daily glass or two of wine has suffered terribly due to the 'Wine funds' being diverted to the 'Holds funds' jar, we are making best use of our new training facility.

With Gustavo away in Tasmania looking at the stars, Marguerite (is that Marguerite the French Rock star you may ask?), decided to join our two cheeky chappies at Brisbane's best bouldering venue (well it may well be when the matting arrives).

La belle Marguerite démontre finesse française sur les mouvements puissants














aller Marguerite, ne vous inquiétez pas, nous avons ce qu'il vous repéré!

















The boys pushed on aided by Scarpa's new and extremely responsive 'Boostics' http://www.scarpa.co.uk/


















However fatigue and Nicks bad coffee soon took its toll (Nick says its having Ben Moons School Room holds on a 50 degree wall when they are made for a 40 degree board and not his coffee thats our problem!) Marguerite was heard to say......Bonté ces deux ne sont pas assez forts).

All good walls should have Ben's holds on them......http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/school/school-room-holds/


So it was down to Fergus to demonstrate how its done.


However even Marguerite had to admit, well lets hear it in her own words....."Je dois admettre que c'est un très bon endroit pour pratiquer"



Fergie "Thats were your hand needs to be"
Marguerite "Oui Fergie alors vous pouvez simplement passer à la cale rouge!"












Nous les gars, jusqu'à la prochaine fois. Escalade heureux!

grimpeurs en détresse

Saturday, 12 January 2013

Bouldering Cave

Well, its nearly done. Nick and Evan, with help yesterday from Callum, have nearly finished the training bouldering cave. With just the kickboard, a bit of painting and then the holds put on to go.
Here's a few pictures of the boys efforts. There's a great breeze that comes under the house which will mean training won't be such a chore with temperatures in the mid 30's here in Sweaty Brisbane.

The first section, minus kickboard.



























The boys put the first of the steeper section forming the roof in place. We plan to have lots of problems on the wall but also a few circuits so we can do laps.










Don't drop it Evan......I'm looking for the bolts.













Nearly done....wow!














Well thats the latest on the training cave. We are off climbing now so that's your lot. Until next time. Happy climbing/bouldering.

Sunday, 30 December 2012

Bankside Boulders, Tooheys Forest

With time at a premium, we decided to stay close to home and visits the Bankside Boulders at Tooheys Forest. These boulders have been made more accessible thanks to the development and cleaning by Bruce Taylor see http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/queensland/toohey-forest/area18416477

We headed for the 'Tippy Boulder' and did a few of Bruce's problems, Sister Nell V0 and Rainbow Warrior V3. We then decided to look at the obvious line between the two problems.


Evan was first to send Mid Strength V4 which starts on the side pull near the pocket in the middle of the photo above, up to a small rail with your left hand, feet up then left again to crimp on top of boulder, mantle to finish.

Nick looked at the obvious sit start on the rail above the bouldering matt. Head up and right to the next rail. Move to the holds either side of the light section in the photo above. Feet up then move to the small pocket. Slap for the top and mantle. There's no holds on the top its a mantle or nothing. this project was going to go at V4/5 until Evan snapped the only decent starting foot hold off.

We then moved to the Nom Nom Nom boulder, did Brendan Heywood's Nom Nom Nom & Num Num Num.

Brad (Nick in Picture) then started on his project.  Starting on 'Sasquat' .............

moving left above the mouth using a cross over move on side pulls, and finishing up Nom Nom Nom.

If you stick to the smaller side pulls, we think this will go at V5 ish?

See you!